Sunday, March 5, 2017

Pelzli - not so new but still news

by Chris

Just a short one with an update from the grand old dame Pelzli... a limestone crag in the Basler Jura with a history that lasts over a century!

Sector 'Westliche Mättelifelsen' 

Some time a ago I've rebolted two very good routes that have almost been forgotten due to their bad state of bolts and non-existing belays. The extremely good 'Boulderweg' from 1982, opened up by the then young Dominik Egloff. And 'Würfelspiele' (engl. 'Dice Games'), an very short but yet interesting boulder in incredible good rock, opened up by Wenzel Vodicka in 1986. Inbetween I've bolted the new 'Vergissmeingwicht' (a not tranlateable word game in german...) with a cool bouldery start and technical moves in the middle part. It joins the final flake of 'Boulderweg'.

Left        Würfelspiele 7b+
Middle   Vergissmeingwicht 6c
Right      Boulderweg 6b

In the left pic the obviously old scrap...

There's more...

Left picture below: Face to face of 'Moserkante' and 'Grümschelli-Highway' on the 'Bärenwirt' there is a free standing face that now hosts 'Finger in der Steckdose' (engl. 'Fingers in the socket'). The peculiar routes name refer to the strange two-mono-finger-socket-type-hold in the crux. It's full of interest and not that easy. I propose 7b+. Is that correct?

Right picture above: Right of the famous 'Händli-Versteck-Wändli' there is an overhanging corner in best solid rock. I've bolted this one and expected it to be untouched. Some weeks later I've heard it has been climbed as a Highball more than a decade ago by Michi Steimle. Sorry, I didn't knew that. There should be more infos about such already existing lines. Unfortunately there are none. The debate is open and maybe will never lead to a conclusion, wether such a line should ever be bolted (in an area with already mostly bolted routes) to be accessible for many or if it should be left as a monument of the braveness of a few. And should a route like this getting dismantled because of it's historical origin? Now it's there... and what will happen? To point out the difference of the two, I've baptised it 'Cocoon Chanel' because of a move where you shrink yourself around the corner like a cocoon, versus it's Highball-Name 'Zecke' (engl. 'Tick').

Absolutely a climb of it's own is the blank looking face with it's excellent, albeit smeary rock. A bolt has been set by Thomas Kraus in 1987 to work it on toprope. But he wasn't sure about the line and where to go, put off the bolt and left it aside. I've now set three bolts plus belay and the line follows a bit on the right (right hand on the right corner) but goes left into the face to the second bolt, wich is a very hard clip, and then leads straight to the belay. Nice open pinches and pockets create a cool little and balancy climb. It's called 'Die finschderi Sytte' (engl. 'The dark side') and I'm not sure if it deservers to be 7c. Could be easier or even very much harder... I have no clue. The longer I climb (now more than 35 years) the worse my abilities to rate a climb with a grade...

Pictures below: 
Left: Jürgen ist going for the crux on 'Cocoon Chanel 6c'.  
Right: My backside well visible in the bouldery 'Die finschderi Sytte 7c'.

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