written by Chris
For the native (swiss-)german speaking climbing scene it seems a bit weird to have local-rock-news in english. But there are a lot of expats working in Basel's chemical industry and amongst them are climbers. One can hear so many different english slangs while climbing in one of Basel's three major climbing gyms. And they are happy too to get some first hand information from the cliffs in front of the door.
Again some news from Pelzli. There is a lot more going on in the moment. Most actual activities bear the hallmarks of Michel Glesser and are described in the new topo guide "Jura EXTREM" by the edition Filidor.
But it's still going on. On the west face of Bärenwirt in the Pelzli I've cleaned and rebolted the ultraclassic 'Teufelsriss' ('Devil's Crack) and 'English Rain', due to it's straightened line now called 'New English Rain', as well as the nicely pocketed short climb 'Avec les doigts' right around the corner of the easy ramp with all the routes called something with 'Joggeli...'. And new routes that have been established without being mentioned in the new guide-book.
Here we go:
Pic Left: Bärenwirt Westwand (West Face)
1 Erzählmirnix 6a+
Opened by Michel Glesser Takes the original start of 'Teufelsriss' but breaches to the left and follows nice pockets.
2 Teufelsriss 6a+
Rebolted. The original line of this ultra-classic. Squeeze in... I left the old pitons by purpose as silent witness of climbing-times long past - and they don't disturb!
3 Teufelsriss - Right Start 5c
Rebolted. More homogenous. But still a bouldery move at the second bolt. Can feel harder with wrong beta.
4 Go quickly slowly 6b
Opened by Michel Glesser. Nice climbing up and right of the obvious ramp. Joins 'Teufelsriss' on the last few meters.
5 New English Rain 6c
Rebolted and straightened line. Amazing bouldery move in the lower orange wall. From the ramp follow two bolts of 'Teufelsriss' and then left on the pillar with good sidepulls, flakes and pockets.
Pic Right: Rechenschieber Right
1 Avec les doigts 6c+
Rebolted. Great technical pocket climbing. Should be 50 m long...
2 Les pieds inspirés 6c
Opened up by me. Not a use of leftovers but a really cool little climb with an interesting crux on very small and shallow pocketed crimps and some nice deep pockets.
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| Tina in 'Teufelsriss' |
Again some news from Pelzli. There is a lot more going on in the moment. Most actual activities bear the hallmarks of Michel Glesser and are described in the new topo guide "Jura EXTREM" by the edition Filidor.
But it's still going on. On the west face of Bärenwirt in the Pelzli I've cleaned and rebolted the ultraclassic 'Teufelsriss' ('Devil's Crack) and 'English Rain', due to it's straightened line now called 'New English Rain', as well as the nicely pocketed short climb 'Avec les doigts' right around the corner of the easy ramp with all the routes called something with 'Joggeli...'. And new routes that have been established without being mentioned in the new guide-book.
Here we go:
Pic Left: Bärenwirt Westwand (West Face)
1 Erzählmirnix 6a+
Opened by Michel Glesser Takes the original start of 'Teufelsriss' but breaches to the left and follows nice pockets.
2 Teufelsriss 6a+
Rebolted. The original line of this ultra-classic. Squeeze in... I left the old pitons by purpose as silent witness of climbing-times long past - and they don't disturb!
3 Teufelsriss - Right Start 5c
Rebolted. More homogenous. But still a bouldery move at the second bolt. Can feel harder with wrong beta.
4 Go quickly slowly 6b
Opened by Michel Glesser. Nice climbing up and right of the obvious ramp. Joins 'Teufelsriss' on the last few meters.
5 New English Rain 6c
Rebolted and straightened line. Amazing bouldery move in the lower orange wall. From the ramp follow two bolts of 'Teufelsriss' and then left on the pillar with good sidepulls, flakes and pockets.
Pic Right: Rechenschieber Right
1 Avec les doigts 6c+
Rebolted. Great technical pocket climbing. Should be 50 m long...
2 Les pieds inspirés 6c
Opened up by me. Not a use of leftovers but a really cool little climb with an interesting crux on very small and shallow pocketed crimps and some nice deep pockets.
Kommentare
Äh, gibt es im Pelzli ein Wettlauf um das Sanieren von Routen?
Patrik
Die new englishrain wird ganz sicher ein Klassiker...einfach gut und schön zu klettern.
liebe Grüsse, und vielen Dank an all die tollen Sanierungen im Pelzli und sonst wo,
Alex
'Erzählmirnix' und 'Go quickly slowly' sind neu.
Die einzig Neue, die eine bestehende Route kreuzt ist 'Go quickly slowly' (kreuzt 'English Rain'. Der Routenverlauf folgt logisch entlang der Kante der Rampe des 'Teufelsriss'.
Insofern schliesse ich mich der Meinung von Alex an, dass die Routen sehr wohl und leicht zu unterscheiden sind.
Im aktuellen Routenverlauf sind die Climbs jeweils homogen in ihrem Schwierigkeitsgrad. Man könnte 'Go quickly' unten mit 'English Rain' oben und 'Englisch Rain' unten mit 'Go quickly' oben klettern. Jedoch wäre dann immer ein Teil zu leicht und der andere zu schwer.
Die Bärenwirt-Westwand ist jetzt absolut ausgereizt. Es wird nun kaum mehr einer auf die Idee kommen, dort noch eine Route dazu zu erschliessen. Ganz einfach, weil kein Platz mehr ist.
Viel Spass beim chlimme. Macht echt Freude am Bärenwirt rumzuturnen.