Donna Corazon – a little four pitch adventure

written by Chris

Donna Corazon / Gorges du Court

Imagine a challenging mulitpitch climb almost without an access hike. For those living in the northwestern part of Switzerland this means on one of your days off work or possibly without work you can allow yourself a long sleep, celebrate an extended breakfast and then take the little journey into the heart of the Jura-Range inbetween Saignelegier, Biel and Basel to arrive around noon. There is such one route in the Gorge du Court close to Moutier.

In 2015 Tina and me bolted the 120 m line of Donna Corazon, taking 4 pitches in the range from 7a+ up to 7c on the obvious and prominent pillar leading up right of the classic 'Grande dièdre' and directly to the top of the Paroi des Romains. The 15 minutes hike in is pretty well survivable for weak legs.

Taking into account that the typical Jura-type of rock on the Romains wall isn’t always the best, we decided to bolt it perfectly as a sports route. That doesn’t mean the climb is brittle everywhere – most parts of the route offer excellent limestone – but there is a possibility of snapping little flakes. Take 15 quickdraws and you can go full power and risk. The route isn’t dangerous (depending on what you do in your own responsibility) and the climbing full fun.

Donna Corazon L1 - 7c

The type of climbing itself is technical and surprisingly resistant. Not to forget the exposure and steepness but with the luxury of comfortable belays. So you don’t have to deal with hanging fatigue. A bit tricky is the rope handling and you face intermediate pitches.

So an unusual day out with a bit of adventure is guaranteed.

The best is to explain the single pitches and with a correct use of this manual you shouldn’t encounter severe problems.

Donna Corazon L2 - 7a+

Pitch 1 – 7c: The first 8 m of 6c-ish will not be ones favorite. Then the fun starts: from the little ledge you start into the bulge on (reinforced) underclings as for the crux with some violent moves. Some tricky and technical moves lead you to easier terrain along a crack wich you exit on the left when you opt for better rock. 

Once you’ve reached the belay, you can either lower off as for a ‘normal’ sports climb or you continue up along the fixed rope over the ‘jardin’ until a tree, from where you belay the second (Intermediate-Pitch 1A – dotted line in the topo). Then follow the fixed rope up to left to a perfect belay on a sweet ledge and under a roof. Bolted by Tina, I like to mention that this pitch is one of the rares in the Jura and elsewhere that has been entirely equipped by a woman!

Donna Corazon L3 - 7b+

Pitch 2 – 7a+: This is a Fontainebleau-Pitch, meaning you have to compete with bouldery moves on incredible slopey rock. Don’t cheat and climb into the dirt on the left, which is neither fun nor safe. The rest of the pitch is easy beezzy…

Pitch 3 – 7b+: Okay, the first 4 meters are really brittle. But I guarantee all bolts are in solid rock and all the correct and important hand- and footholds are good quality. So open your eyes! The following dihedral is climbed via it’s left hand side until you reach a good stance. The following slab with the crux is excellent! When you reach the golden chain with a carabiner take a right- and downward traverse (5b) till the obvious arrete with a perfect belay around the corner. 

Donna Corazon L4 - 7b

Now the trick: the follower let the rope in the carabiner on the golden chain and clips a long quickdraw into his/her harness and the rope leading to the belay on the right. In doing so you stay safe and in a case of a fall you avoid a big pendulum swing and crash into the big dihedral on the left. Once both leader and second have reached the belay, the second has to tie off and pull the ropey and then tie in again. Now traverse easy terrain 10 m to the right for another good belay (Intermediate-Pitch 3A – dotted line in the topo).

Pitch 4 – 7b: Up and slightly right of the arrete in crazy exposure and good rock over delicate and technical moves until easy climbing to the very top. On the right you see old pitons of a last century adventure techno climb.

In May 2015 and together with Tina I completed the route in doing all pitches on lead and redpoint on a cloudy afternoon after a good sleep in the morning and an extended breakfast before heading into this nice little adventure.