Flatanger 2016 - new bolted routes at Hanshallaren and more

written by Chris

Time for a photo-blog...

Flatanger again! This time in September 2016...
New routes bolted by me and Joris, one of the world's most beautiful 8b and the 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade.

Unfortunately it was very wet this time. A lot of rain, sun was rare, the climbs in the cave were wet, more wet,  most wet... Not always easy, but we made the best out of it.  Thanks Luca, Joris and Andrea.
This might be of most interest... the new routes! Thanks again to the Norges Bolte Fond for the bolts and the climbing club of Trondheim for the power drill.

The two ones on the left pic are left of 'Limpa'. So these routes are the very first you bump in while hiking up to the Hanshallaren cave.
Left: 'Joris' 6a - bolted by Joris.
Right: 'Pelle' 6b - bolted by me.

On the pic in the middle there is the new 'Lykkelige Sønner ' 6a+ inbetween 'Trykokkeren' and 'Ingwe', bolted by Joris and me.

On the right pic the line of 'Swiss Miniature' right of the short and nameless 6b+ wich is on the right of 'Banana Ballet'. Great one! Still a project at 8a+ or 8b. It was too wet for a send... Next time!

The Doorkeeper, opened up by Adam Ondra in 2013. What a great climb! 40 m full of interest. Maybe one of the most beautiful ever at it's grade of 8b... Grey and black clothed climbers on grey and black rock is not the best photo subject and should be forbidden... :)

Here on the send - me doing the last bouldery crux high up the route. A hearbreaking showdown... glad I never fell there!
By doing the 'Dverg Trav', a 40 m traverse deep inside the cave at 8a+ I could celebrate my 300th route at 8a and above. Only for the statistics, not a goal of mine. But well, the number came together... Pic by Joris. Thank you!
A unusual view of the Hanshallaren cave from Olav's boat.
And another special view from the Villa Island - Hanshallaren is visible in the middle of the pic.
Norway's landscape is simply wonderful and stunning, sometimes mystic an surreal. Pic by Andrea. Thank you.

Kommentare

Markus hat gesagt…
6a+.... mit etwas Üben käme ich da nach etwa 4 Wochen rauf.... :-) Chris, einmal mehr ein supertoller Blog-Eintrag. Macht gluschtig. :-) Und dann diese Bilder... Wahre Kunst!
Unknown hat gesagt…
Hello!

Do you guys have any idea where I can find an updated Topo for the cave online? I'm in the cave this week, and looking at a line of bolts in between Flaggermusmannen and Ronja. It looks amazing but I have no idea what it is! Any ideas?

Thanks for all the great bolting work guys, total heroes!


Cherry
Chris hat gesagt…
Hi Andrew. Thank you! :) Hope, everything is fine up in the cave. Unfortunately there is no online topo. But Berit and Olav should host all updates concerning new routing in their house.
As far as I know, the climb you're looking for is called 'Joker' and goes at 8c.
Most actual topo is 'Climb Norway'.
Hope this helps. Have fun up there, Chris
Jérôme Lecat hat gesagt…
Hi Chris,

I ve been trying your route "pelle"(left of limpa) but it seems way harder than 6b or maybe I didn t understantd a thing...

It has hard boulders to start and to finish, in between 6a/b though it s hard to read and has some tricky moves.

it looks more a 7 something... (7a+?)

Did you first ascended it?

thanks for your feed back

Jérôme